One of my favourite complications in watchmaking is the humble chronograph. At first glance, some might question its relevance in an age when precise timing is always within reach on a smartphone. And it’s true — when I’m cooking and need exact timing, I often reach for my phone without a second thought. But my appreciation for the chronograph goes far beyond practicality. To me, it represents something far more compelling: beauty, history, and a certain romantic spirit.

Vario is a Singapore-based microbrand, which is celebrating its 10th year anniversary this year. Not only is this a significant accomplishment for an Asian microbrand in an industry dominated by Western competitors, it’s impressive for a microbrand in general. For context, the oldest microbrand is Christopher Ward (UK microbrand-cum-independent founded in 2004), and the next oldest microbrands that come to mind would be Baltic, which was founded in 2016 just like Vario.

Both of us at The Watch Brief own a Kuoe. Founded in 2020 by designer Uchimura, the brand debuted with the Old Smith 90-001. Today, Kuoe operates from a stylish boutique in the Nakagyo Ward, while also selling watches at retail locations worldwide. The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002, which is a bronze field watch featuring a lightly textured black dial, a tan NATO strap, and powered by the workhorse NH38 movement. I've had it for several months now, and it's a comfortable wear.

Unlike Christmas or Hanukkah or Ramadan, the revolving door of Zodiac Animals - like this year’s Horse - allows watchmakers and designers to be more creative and go beyond kitsch when creating a watch to honor this annual event. Furthermore, the Zodiac Animals also have different elements. I, for one, am an Earth Tiger, while a relative of mine is a Water Tiger. The fact that we can incorporate elements creates a much richer tapestry for designers when planning ahead for thei

So when Tommaso took the leap of faith to launch his own brand, it was to bring a complicated watch to the wrists of consumers without costing over a hundred thousand euros (at minimum). After a year of research, he learned, unfortunately, that releasing a debut watch at under a thousand euros with a grand complication like a perpetual calendar or minute repeater was literally impossible, but that didn’t mean he couldn’t do the next best thing: A watch with a lot of great com

There are two types of military watches in the world. The first are “military” in name only. Created with faux patina, pretend ruggedness, and a price tag that can make eyes water. The second are the real deal: built for purpose, unpretentious, and about as glamorous as a spade. The Vertex M36 sits firmly in the latter camp. It’s not here to dazzle the office accountants or win Instagram likes. It’s here to tell the time. It’s unapologetically simple. It’s designed with pu

Doxa was founded in the famed Le Locle region of Switzerland by twenty-one-year old Georges Ducommun in 1889. I guess that’s impressive. When he was 21, he was a true watchmaker, and created a brand that would outlive him by almost an entire century. When I was 21, I was pushing a car up a mountain during a blizzard, but hey, it’s fine. Maybe in the next life, Georges can reach my level. Doxa initially distinguished itself through alarm watches, anti-magnetic watches

As a coffee enthusiast, I was naturally excited when a brand called Brew appeared on the watch scene. Of course, “Brew” could mean almost anything — or nothing at all — as many brands choose names based compulsively on sound rather than meaning. After all, Rolex doesn’t have any inherent definition, but it certainly rolls off the tongue. In this case, however, Brew is very much a nod to coffee, as the company’s founder, Jonathan Ferrer, is a genuine coffee aficionado.

It’s that time of the year, where a new year starts and we all venture back to the office for the classic 9-to-5. However, the weather is warming, the sun is out longer, and spring is just around the corner, and with it, the potential for a new vacation, if, of course, we have enough vacation days left. It can be a surprisingly fun activity to choose watches specifically for your holiday, even if your non-watch collector friends think you’re completely insane. Going on a

As the year comes to an end, and our bank accounts briefly swell with our bonus before being emptied to purchase gifts for our loved ones, let’s take a look back at some of the watches that were released in 2025. This list will be divided by our favorite releases, our least-favorite, and releases that made us go, “Huh, well, that’s… interesting.”

There was nothing ostentatious about it, yet something in the quiet dignity of that display made me stop. The glass was slightly dusty, the labels handwritten, but the aura was unmistakable: this was a place where time had chosen to linger. And then my eyes caught it. A Minerva. A white enamel dial glowed softly behind slightly curved glass. The black Breguet numerals and blued hands seemed suspended in time; the typography alone could have been a study in restraint. I sto

I often think of luxury watches as time machines you carry on your wrist: they measure the passing of hours, yes, but more importantly, they preserve moments. My Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 212.30.41.20.01.003, bought new from an authorized dealer in 2012, doesn’t just tell time. It tells us that time once stood still.

Like many other microbrands, Minim was created from an enthusiast’s desire to create watches for the most important customer of all - oneself. Chloe has a career she loves in Finance, so creating the brand is not a money grab. After all, if making an abundance of money was the ultimate goal, Chloe - and any other watch enthusiast - could probably tell you that starting your very own brand from scratch is not a great idea.

It is important for a winter watch to be slim, so that it can easily fit underneath a sweater sleeve or a thick jacket without protruding outward like you have something on your wrist that is very excited to see your significant other. This doesn’t necessarily mean you have to have a dress watch, but it does rule out a lot of great, somewhat thicker divers like a Seiko Monster, Seiko Tuna, Seiko Arnie, Seiko - wait, I promise this isn’t an Anti-Seiko article! The next is

Imagine the “friend zone.” We’ve all been there. It’s that awkward place where you adore someone’s vibe, you laugh at their jokes, you even gush about them to your friends, and yet you know, deep down, they’re never making it past “platonic brunch buddy.” Watches have their own friend zone, too. These are the brands and models we admire from a safe distance.

It sometimes feels as if there is a brand new release from a major brand every week, which also means that there is a brand new release from a microbrand or a notable independent every other day. Unfortunately, we can’t keep track of all of these new watches, but we can at least highlight a few of our favorite releases, updates, or industry-related news. Let’s start it off with one of our favorite microbrands.

Being in the watch media and brand collaboration space, I often get the chance to handle some incredible pieces. Recently, I had the pleasure of spending time with two standout models from Formex: the Essence Chronometer (in that striking gamaret) and the Reef Diver Chronometer (in blue). While they share some DNA, they bring very different personalities to the wrist. Let’s break them down.

Buying a new watch is an experience wrapped in both excitement and anxiety. Honestly, spending hundreds or even thousands of dollars on something that’s “just a time-telling device” feels like a bit of a gamble. I catch myself wondering, Am I making the right call? Of course, logically, a watch, no matter how fancy, isn’t worth its price tag. But here’s the thing: logic rarely wins against passion in this hobby.

KNIS is a Kyoto-based Japanese microbrand founded by Niii Keisuke, offering high-quality automatic watches at affordable prices. With models like the KN001-RD, featuring a sunburst red dial, sapphire crystal, Miyota 8215 movement, and strong everyday wearability, KNIS proves that microbrands can compete with major players.

Switzerland, Germany, and Japan are often considered the holy trinity of watchmaking, each with a rich heritage and distinct style of horology. For over a century, enthusiasts have proudly sought out a “Made in” label from these countries, treating it as a badge of honor. Yet, there’s another nation with a surprisingly enduring presence in watchmaking - Russia.