A Tale of Two Kuoe Watches

Kyoto is quite the place. The former Japanese capital is a cultural hub, a tourist destination, and an absolute sauna in the summer. Personally, we’ve always had a love–hate relationship with the city. We love strolling its streets, with food and drink options seemingly on every corner. The shrines and historic architecture are breathtaking.

But Kyoto is also popular. At times, too popular. Walking down the main shopping street can feel like rush hour in Tokyo. And as a resident of Japan, nothing makes us feel more like a tourist than being handed an English menu the moment we walk into a restaurant.

And yet, despite these mixed feelings, both of us at The Watch Brief own a Kuoe. Founded in 2020 by designer Uchimura, the brand debuted with the Old Smith 90-001. Today, Kuoe operates from a stylish boutique in the Nakagyo Ward, while also selling watches at retail locations worldwide.

Bryan’s Watch

My piece, the Old Smith 90-002, was purchased before Kuoe’s boutique opened. At the time, visiting meant climbing the stairs to a nondescript office, only to discover case after case of beautiful watches.

The 90-002 takes inspiration from British military watches produced between the 1940s and 1970s. It features bold numerals, a generously sized handset, and a matte dial with a fine-grained texture that pairs beautifully with its green colorway.

The case, crafted from 316L stainless steel, measures 35mm in diameter and 12mm thick. By modern standards, this is a small watch. But its size reflects its vintage aesthetic, and on the wrist it feels solid and well-proportioned. Although it’s the smallest watch in my collection, it doesn’t look out of place. Then again, I do have a soft spot for vintage military watches, so perhaps I’m biased.

A domed sapphire crystal enhances the vintage look, introducing a gentle distortion around the edges. Its anti-reflective coating helps reduce glare, while the dome itself adds visual height without bulk, a subtle trick that makes the watch appear larger than its specs suggest.

My 90-002 includes lume, though it isn’t the strongest feature. More recent models reportedly use Swiss Super-LumiNova, which lasts about a third longer than the lume on mine. While I’d certainly appreciate the upgrade, the lume on my green Old Smith is perfectly serviceable.

The Movement

Beating inside the 90-002 is the Seiko NH38, a dateless version of the well-known NH35. While Seiko movements have their detractors, the choice makes sense here. The NH38 ticks away at 21,600 beats per hour, is hackable, can be hand-wound, and has a reputation for reliability.

The only drawback is its 41-hour power reserve, which is slightly shorter than I’d like. Still, at this price point, it’s more than acceptable, and given that this movement can be serviced by any competent watchmaker, maintenance is a breeze. 

The Straps

When I purchased the watch, the kind sales associate offered me three strap options in 18mm: a green-and-brown NATO, another NATO, and a mesh bracelet. While all looked good and felt durable, I never found them particularly comfortable. Perhaps that’s just me—many Kuoe owners on social media happily wear their watches on the original straps.

As for mine, it’s usually paired with an Erika’s Original NM strap or a green NATO from Vertex, both of which I find far more comfortable for daily wear.

Jilliano's Watch: Kuoe Old Smith 90-002

I got my Kuoe long after Bryan had sung its praises with help from The Watch Brief guest writer, Domitian. I visited the Kuoe flagship store in Kyoto during a business trip, and I was truly impressed with both the customer service, and the watches themselves.

One of the reasons why the majority of watch collectors never stray far from the loving embrace of major brands is because most microbrands or independents don't have brick-and-mortar stores. While that doesn't necessarily mean that they will buy directly from the store, there is a psychological comfort in knowing that a store exists... even as we buy it from Amazon to get points to avail for our next impulse purchase. Now that Kuoe has a flagship store in Kyoto, a branch in Tokyo, and even a branch in Seoul, even more people are becoming comfortable in buying a Kuoe.

The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002, which is a bronze field watch featuring a lightly textured black dial, a tan NATO strap, and powered by the workhorse NH38 movement. I've had it for several months now, and it's a comfortable wear, although the bronze has yet to patina, despite the number of times I've worn it. Let me first elaborate about what I adore about this watch before going into my nitpicks and points of improvement.

The Design

It would have been very easy to do too much. Thankfully, Kuoe understood the old age of "less is more" perfectly. The black dial is offset by a lightly textured finish, which elevates it from being too boring, and avoids being too flashy by going for a sunburst design instead. The Arabic numerals are simple, large, and completely legibile with a Super-LumiNova coating. I must admit that the coating is not too strong, but it's honestly better than your average Hamilton Khaki Field. It has a minute track encircling the entire dial to make telling the time even easier, and a PVD-coated bronze handset that matches the bronze case perfectly.

As I wrote in other articles, I think a lot of microbrands struggle with deciding to be an homage style... and being a loud, contrarian watch. Kuoe, however, seems to know exactly what it's going for, and never seems as if they are copying anybody, or trying desperately not to copy others. They have achieved the perfect balance.

The Movement: It's Serviceable

I mean that in two ways. The NH38 movement is perfectly fine, and there really isn't much more that can be said about it. I have a lot of gripes with the accuracy of the NH38 movement, but I do genuinely believe that a manual movement would have added to the vintage field watch aesthetic of this watch, as well as reduced its thickness even more.

The Straps: Well...

Unlike Bryan, I actually don't change straps that often. Also unlike Bryan, I don't really have a lot of experience with high quality straps. So, when I got my Kuoe, I was surprised by its comfort, because I had heard stories that it wasn't the best. Well, as it turns out, that wasn't exactly wrong.

After wearing it only 5 times, the NATO strap had frayed, and some of the threads even seemed to be on the verge of ripping off. It's still comfortable, but I don't think it is the most durable strap.

Is It Worth it?

At roughly 500 USD, I think it is a no-brainer. You literally cannot get a bronze watch from a major brand at this price point, unless you are willing to buy it secondhand. Additionally, my confidence in receiving high quality customer support already vaults it over some other brands.

Finally, this may be some sentimentality talking, but there is something great about knowing that my money is supporting a fellow microbrand. As someone who has worked for a microbrand for a few years now, I know exactly how difficult it can be to get a brand up and running, and knowing that my money can support a brand - even one as successful as Kuoe? Well, let's just say that that brings me great joy. It also helps that they make some pretty cool watches.

Conclusion

Kuoe is a wonderful brand, though, like Kyoto itself, it operates in a crowded space. The microbrand scene is filled with compelling options, all competing for attention and hard-earned money.

But Kuoe is more than just another microbrand. For many, it’s a celebration. While the watches we own impress with their quality, design, and reliable movement, the real magic lies in what it represents. The watch feels like a tangible memory of Kyoto. It’s something you carry on your wrist long after leaving the city.

The next time you find yourself in Kyoto, step into their boutique and explore the collection. You may just walk out with more than a watch. You’ll leave with a keepsake steeped in history, design, and personal memories.