Winter Watches: More Important than Summer Watches?

Since the dawn of watch journalism (or at least since the first Hodinkee article), the term ‘Summer Watch’ has been a part of any self-respecting watch nerd’s vernacular in the same way that “Gerald Genta-inspired design” is used to describe any watch with an integrated bracelet. It is understood that a Summer Watch is basically anything light, compatible with NATO and / or rubber straps, and if not, it better have a great bracelet with an easy micro-adjust clasp. As a bonus, summer watches normally have vibrant colors like orange or neon green or sunburst blue. 

But what about my favorite season - winter? Since I’m fortunate enough to have this website as an outlet for all of my wild ideas for watches, let me briefly explain what I think makes for a good winter watch. 

Winter Watch: The Criteria

It is important for a winter watch to be slim, so that it can easily fit underneath a sweater sleeve or a thick jacket without protruding outward like you have something on your wrist that is very excited to see your significant other. This doesn’t necessarily mean you have to have a dress watch, but it does rule out a lot of great, somewhat thicker divers like a Seiko Monster, Seiko Tuna, Seiko Arnie, Seiko - wait, I promise this isn’t an Anti-Seiko article! 

The next is not a requirement, but instead, something to consider. If you are going to be wearing several layers, then it’s probably a good idea to avoid a chronograph or anything with pushers that may be accidentally engaged by your thick wool sleeve. Of course, a chronograph won’t exactly break because you used it, but it can be a bit of an annoyance when this happens accidentally. 

Finally, a bright dial - preferably with powerful lume. In any place with a real winter, the sun typically sets earlier and earlier, and it’s helpful to have an extremely legible dial during these times. I’m sure there are other variables that would help make a perfect winter watch, but these are the most important to me, at least. 

Christopher Ward: The Twelve - Glacier Blue (40mm)

This choice may be a bit on the nose, but honestly, this is too good looking of a watch for me to disqualify simply because the name “Glacier Blue” and the matching colored dial is predictable. The watch is quite thin, and unlike other integrated bracelet watches like the similarly integrated PRX or even Nivada Grenchen F77, there is both a decent amount of tapering (sorry, Tissot) and a lack of a distinct bezel silhouette (sorry, Nivada) that means it can slip under the cuff without issue. 

Of course, this watch would be perfectly at home on your wrist during the summer as well or even - shockingly enough - autumn and spring. However, I think that this icy dial and its sleek case size make it perfect for the time of the year when it gets a bit chillier and you find yourself reaching for a thick jacket more often than not.

CW: The Twelve (Glacier Blue) - 1,450 USD

Hamilton Khaki Field: Titanium

I have written a pretty extensive review about this watch, so now I’ll just focus on what exactly makes it a better winter watch than - let’s say - a summer watch. Grade 2 titanium is, surprisingly, sticky. I didn’t even realize this difference until I tried a Tudor Pelagos, and I noticed that the caseback - which was Grade 5 titanium - felt considerably better than the full Grade 2 titanium build of my Hamilton. But in winter, when you’re unlikely to sweat, you essentially eliminate this sticky feeling caused by humidity and heat. The movement is also reliable, automatic, and most importantly, slim, which means you never have to worry about any unwanted protrusions when wearing a sweater and / or a jacket. 

Finally, I think that having a lightweight watch is perfect during winter when you’re sometimes forced to have so many layers on that you feel like you’re carrying an extra twenty pounds already. The major or perhaps the only downside of this watch when considering it from a "winter watch" lens is that its lume is nothing extraordinary, but it's definitely serviceable, so it shouldn't be too bad for that.

For more detailed info about what makes this watch great, however, you can read my review about it.

Cartier Tank

Considering I just wrote about how I’ve friendzoned a Cartier Tank and don’t see myself ever buying one, its inclusion here may be a bit surprising. However, I just can’t deny that its size  (24mm x 31mm for the Medium Cartier Tank Solo / 27mm x 35mm for the Large Cartier Tank Solo) makes it perfect for the criteria I’ve arbitrarily selected. Personally, though, I would probably choose a Vario Versa instead, or even the gothic Echo/Neutra Rivanera with its sleek titanium build and manual Swiss movement. 

Now that I’ve suggested a few watches for you to consider, let’s find out what co-founder Dr. Bryan thinks!

Rolex Explorer 

Thank you, Jian. As for my picks, things might get a bit different. As someone who generally wears any watch at any time, this was a challenging task. What would be my ideal watch for the winter months, granted it never gets that cold in my part of the world?  Let’s start with my first choice, the Rolex Explorer. Originally designed for explorers, the Explorer made its name on the wrist of many a Mount Everest climber. In fact, the watch was released in 1953 to celebrate Sir John Hunt’s  successful British expedition to the summit. 

Given its pedigree, the Explorer should have no problem handling your slightly nippy commute to the office. The current Explorer is available in both 36mm and 40mm sizes, although purists may prefer the 36 mm model. The versatile and reliable Caliber 3230 offers 70 hours of power reserve and a wonderful -2/+2 seconds per day. 

Casio Pro-Trek White Mountaineering 

I’ll be honest, I’m not the outdoors type. Skiing, snowboarding, or any other winter sport isn’t exactly my idea of fun. But if you are so inclined, this Casio might be the perfect companion.

Unlike the refined dress pieces we’ve discussed so far, this isn’t a slim, slip-under-your-designer-sweater kind of watch. The Pro Trek was built for the outdoors, and it wears its purpose proudly. Offered in both digital and ana-digi configurations, the series spans a range of sizes and features, but for our money, the standout winter edition is the collaboration with Japanese outdoor brand White Mountaineering.

The PRJ-B001 is the first Pro Trek to feature a rotary guard bezel, designed to prevent accidental button presses. It also boasts a hybrid analog/digital display, Bluetooth connectivity for automatic time adjustment, and Casio’s Tough Solar technology, allowing the watch to charge from any natural or artificial light source. Completing the package is a flame-resistant black fabric strap that looks as rugged as the watch feels.

Importantly, at only $200, or thereabouts, this watch should not break the bank, allowing you to splurge on your next skiing holiday. 

Micromilspec Worldtimer White 

When the days shorten and the air turns cold, you want a watch that does more than just keep time. You want one that complements the season. The MICROMILSPEC Worldtimer White makes a strong case for being the winter go-to.

The crisp white dial, paired with the sharpness of satin-brushed Grade 5 titanium, reflects winter light beautifully. At 42mm with 200m water resistance and a robust case architecture, this is a watch ready for winter’s worst. The titanium case helps too: lightweight on the wrist despite its size, and better suited than steel when it comes to cold-soak comfort.

Functionality matches style. The in-house Swiss chronograph with Worldtimer complication means you can track time across multiple zones, which is perfect for those travelling over the holidays. A full 60-hour power reserve means you don’t need to wind it every day, even when your winter routine throws off your usual schedule. Super-LumiNova X1 indices and hands ensure visibility in early morning dimness or overcast afternoons.

If you want a watch that holds its own through grey skies, cold winds, and shifting plans, the MICROMILSPEC Worldtimer White is one of the best winter picks out there, if you can get one. These beauties come in at $3,850 and are made to order. 

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There is no rubric for what makes one watch better for winter than another, just like there isn't one for which watch is better for summer than any other. Hopefully, through this article, it's made you consider your collection, and realize that there are some watches that you wear a little bit less during the winter, while others seem to find its way on your wrist more often than during any other time of the year. Or, you might be reading this, and wondering: How much time do these two writers actually have?

Regardless, let us know what you think, and drop a few suggestions for winter watches in the comments below.