My Navitimer comes in at 43mm. On paper, this may seem quite large. However, the moment you strap it on, you can feel what makes this watch special. Like the Speedmaster, the Navitimer wears exceptionally well on the wrist thanks to its relatively short lug-to-lug distance at 49-millimetre and well-proportioned 43-millimetre case. It never feels bulky or unwieldy due to its relatively thin 13.6-millimetre thickness, and even on smaller wrists it has a presence that communicat

I looked at my collection of shiny objects – essentially a hoard of impulse-buys curated by an overly-stimulated magpie- and found horological quiet when I looked at the Duckworth Prestex Lostock.Unlike the rest of my hoard, which was largely the result of questionable impulse control, the Lostock wasn’t a one-click conquest. I had first seen it at the Toronto Time Piece show, and while the over-stimulated magpie in my brain was busy adding everything to a virtual cart, the L

The first review in our chronograph spectacular is the Omega Speedmaster 3861. It had to be right? After all, aside from the Rolex Submariner, this Speedmaster may be one of the iconic watches of all time. But more on that later.  The first Speedmaster was introduced in 1957 by Omega under the CK2915 reference, more than a decade before the highly publicized 1969 race to produce the first automatic chronograph. Unlike many earlier chronographs that leaned toward aviation o

Vario is a Singapore-based microbrand, which is celebrating its 10th year anniversary this year. Not only is this a significant accomplishment for an Asian microbrand in an industry dominated by Western competitors, it’s impressive for a microbrand in general. For context, the oldest microbrand is Christopher Ward (UK microbrand-cum-independent founded in 2004), and the next oldest microbrands that come to mind would be Baltic, which was founded in 2016 just like Vario.

Both of us at The Watch Brief own a Kuoe. Founded in 2020 by designer Uchimura, the brand debuted with the Old Smith 90-001. Today, Kuoe operates from a stylish boutique in the Nakagyo Ward, while also selling watches at retail locations worldwide. The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002, which is a bronze field watch featuring a lightly textured black dial, a tan NATO strap, and powered by the workhorse NH38 movement. I've had it for several months now, and it's a comfortable wear.

There are two types of military watches in the world. The first are “military” in name only. Created with faux patina, pretend ruggedness, and a price tag that can make eyes water. The second are the real deal: built for purpose, unpretentious, and about as glamorous as a spade. The Vertex M36 sits firmly in the latter camp. It’s not here to dazzle the office accountants or win Instagram likes. It’s here to tell the time. It’s unapologetically simple. It’s designed with pu

Doxa was founded in the famed Le Locle region of Switzerland by twenty-one-year old Georges Ducommun in 1889. I guess that’s impressive. When he was 21, he was a true watchmaker, and created a brand that would outlive him by almost an entire century. When I was 21, I was pushing a car up a mountain during a blizzard, but hey, it’s fine. Maybe in the next life, Georges can reach my level. Doxa initially distinguished itself through alarm watches, anti-magnetic watches

As a coffee enthusiast, I was naturally excited when a brand called Brew appeared on the watch scene. Of course, “Brew” could mean almost anything — or nothing at all — as many brands choose names based compulsively on sound rather than meaning. After all, Rolex doesn’t have any inherent definition, but it certainly rolls off the tongue. In this case, however, Brew is very much a nod to coffee, as the company’s founder, Jonathan Ferrer, is a genuine coffee aficionado.

There was nothing ostentatious about it, yet something in the quiet dignity of that display made me stop. The glass was slightly dusty, the labels handwritten, but the aura was unmistakable: this was a place where time had chosen to linger. And then my eyes caught it. A Minerva. A white enamel dial glowed softly behind slightly curved glass. The black Breguet numerals and blued hands seemed suspended in time; the typography alone could have been a study in restraint. I sto

I often think of luxury watches as time machines you carry on your wrist: they measure the passing of hours, yes, but more importantly, they preserve moments. My Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 212.30.41.20.01.003, bought new from an authorized dealer in 2012, doesn’t just tell time. It tells us that time once stood still.

Buying a new watch is an experience wrapped in both excitement and anxiety. Honestly, spending hundreds or even thousands of dollars on something that’s “just a time-telling device” feels like a bit of a gamble. I catch myself wondering, Am I making the right call? Of course, logically, a watch, no matter how fancy, isn’t worth its price tag. But here’s the thing: logic rarely wins against passion in this hobby.

Switzerland, Germany, and Japan are often considered the holy trinity of watchmaking, each with a rich heritage and distinct style of horology. For over a century, enthusiasts have proudly sought out a “Made in” label from these countries, treating it as a badge of honor. Yet, there’s another nation with a surprisingly enduring presence in watchmaking - Russia.

This guest review of the limited edition Yema Superman GMT 500 was written by watch reviewer Robbie from RobbieandWatches, who has reviewed everything from obscure microbrands to brands that seem to produce grail watches exclusively. Learn more about this GMT diver from the French independent brand now!

The Hamilton Khaki Titanium is my first titanium watch, and it’s been an absolute dream except for one small issue. Is it a deal breaker?

This year, the iconic Rolex Datejust celebrates its 80th anniversary, making it one of the longest-running luxury watch models in the world. To mark the occasion on The Watch Brief, I wanted to discuss one model that found its way into my collection over a year ago, the Datejust 36. While the Datejust is available in 34mm and 41mm, I can firmly state that the 36mm option is the ideal choice, bridging the gap between classic and modern.