Vertex M36 Review: The Ultimate Historical Timepiece

There are two types of military watches in the world. The first are “military” in name only. Created with faux patina, pretend ruggedness, and a price tag that can make eyes water. The second are the real deal: built for purpose, unpretentious, and about as glamorous as a spade. The Vertex M36 sits firmly in the latter camp.

It’s not here to dazzle the office accountants or win Instagram likes. It’s here to tell the time. It’s unapologetically simple. It’s designed with purpose and to requirements that were set down more than 80 years ago. Which, to me, is far more impressive than any wildly priced tourbillon or some blue case that would easily blend into the wrist of a Smurf. This is a watch that wears its history not like a marketing slogan. It has a genuine, unbroken line back to the original Dirty Dozen.

First, the Basics

The M36 is essentially a slightly smaller sibling to the Vertex M100, shrunk to 36mm but still brimming with that military pedigree. I previously covered the Vertex brand, including its history and model range. I recommend checking out that article for more information.

As for the M36, it’s got that Field Watch DNA coursing through its veins, the kind of thing that makes you want to pull on boots and stomp through wet fields. The dial? Perfectly legible. The case? Solid as a brick in a sock. The lume? Incredible. Perhaps not as glowing as its bigger brother, but certainly one of the best for a field watch.

This is a watch that feels like it was built for purpose first, and for showing off second. And that, honestly, is a rare thing.

What I Love About the Vertex M36

Where do we even begin? I could rattle off the specs first. The Goldilocks 36mm case size, the sort of lume that could double as a lighthouse beacon (courtesy of X1-grade C3 Super-LumiNova), and a very un-field-watch-like 100 metres of water resistance, something that the popular Hamilton Khaki Field, bless it, can only dream about.

But before we get bogged down in numbers, we need to talk about the real reason the M36 matters: history.

Back in World War II, the British military needed a watch that wouldn’t just tell time, but would survive mud, rain, and the occasional explosion, and eventually, being worn through over the beaches of Normandy. Once they finalised the design, they called in twelve watchmakers to make them with a specific list of requirements. Black dial, railway-style Arabic numerals, and luminescent indexes that could be read in a blackout. A small seconds subdial at six. Hour and minute hands glowing like they’d been dunked in radioactive custard. Stainless steel case, unpolished, shock-resistant, and waterproof. And, for the cherry on top, an unbreakable Perspex crystal that could take a knock and keep going.

These watches went to war. Some were produced in huge numbers, others in smaller runs, but all earned their place on the wrists of soldiers, sailors, and airmen. Over time, collectors began calling them the “Dirty Dozen” nd today, owning an original is quite a test of patience, particularly for certain brands such as IWC or Omega.

And that’s where the Vertex M36 waltzes in. Released in June to mark the 80th anniversary of D-Day, it isn’t just a watch, it’s a salute to the brand’s military service. Vertex supplied the original to British troops in 1944, and this modern piece carries that DNA intact. It’s tough, it’s honest, and it still has that quiet sense of purpose that made it a soldier’s tool all those decades ago.

The size is perfect. At 36mm, it’s neither comically oversized nor fashionably tiny. It’s just right. The box-shaped sapphire crystal is a wonderful nod to the acrylic domes of the past, but without the scratches that come from everyday use. Underneath lies a dial that could win awards for restraint. The M36 features crisp Arabic numerals, a precise minute track, and those chunky 3D lumed blocks that turn the whole thing into a torch after dark.

Inside ticks the Sellita SW260-1. Yes, it’s not the best movement, but it’s a workhorse. Moreover, it’s a proper, dependable engine that any competent watchmaker can handle. Setting the time is easy, winding it is pleasantly tactile, though for a watch with such historical leanings, I’d almost prefer a pure manual wind.

The M36 comes armed with a surprisingly generous kit: an expandable metal bracelet for when you’re feeling polished, plus leather and cotton straps for weekend scruffiness. It’s even packed in a tactical case, complete with a Velcro patch. I even added the incredible Erika's MN strap to give it some added style.

What I Don’t Care For

This leads me into the watch’s flaws, which I’ll admit, are few and far between. First up, the lugs. They’re on the longer side. It’s a bit like when you try on a jacket and realise the sleeves are just slightly over the knuckle. Not a dealbreaker, but you notice. When the watch is paired with a NATO, it’s less noticeable, but traditional two-piece straps highlight this relatively minor issue.

Then there’s the power reserve. This is a complaint that one could have about any Selita-powered watch with a similar movement, but in a day where Seiko is offering three days in some of their inexpensive pieces, 38 hours is quite low. For instance, my Seiko SRPL91, with the lowly 4R36, has a few hours more in reserve.

And the bracelet? No matter how hard I try, it’s just not my thing. The NATO straps provided by Vertex are incredible, and without a doubt, the most comfortable straps I’ve had on a field watch. And of course, there is nothing inherently wrong with the bracelet. It’s just not my style.

Summary

Put simply, the M36 is a proper throwback to the Dirty Dozen glory days, only it’s been quietly upgraded so you can actually live with it in the 21st century. It’s small enough to slip under a cuff, clear enough to read at a glance, and tough enough to survive just about anything short of a direct hit from a mortar. It shrugs off 100 metres of water like it’s nothing, and the details. From the broad arrow to the “WWW” engraving on the back, the design of this piece does well to commemorate one of the most historical and important events of our time.

However, despite my love, I can hear readers shouting from the rooftops, “It’s £1,791”, and that doesn’t even include VAT.  Another brand, also included in the Dirty Dozen, Timor, is selling its Heritage Field WWW for £831. Not to mention the Hamilton Khaki Field, an iconic field watch, although more on the American side, for under £500. Why is the Vertex priced so much higher?

The answer to that question is challenging. Both the Timor and the Vertex feature the same movement, and both have sapphire crystals attached to a stainless-steel case. But, like any watch, the specs don’t tell the whole story.

Unlike the Timor, the Vertex features a much more interesting dial and far better lume. Vertex also includes a few NATO straps, as well as a metal bracelet (which you may like), packed neatly in a fun and interesting case. The Vertex is extremely well made, and the fit and finish are top-notch. Frankly, outside of the IWC Spitfire, the Vertex M36 is one of the best field watches on the market in terms of overall quality.

This author can’t tell you that you should spend nearly three times the price on the Vertex. We all have different tastes and perspectives. But for me, though, the Vertex is worth every penny.

It’s not just a watch. It’s a piece of history, reimaging by the great-grandson of the founder. In a world where watch companies are owned by mega-corporations, shareholders, or were funded from a Kickstarter campaign, Vertex has maintained its family roots, and I do believe there is something to be said for that.

With a Vertex, you’re buying more than the sum of its parts; you’re buying a story, a heritage, and a watch that feels as if it could survive another eighty years of service without flinching.