Sero Blue Signature Review: Bringing the Classics Back

The majority of microbrands seem to skew between varying degrees of uninspired yet reliable homages to avant-garde, kind of crazy designs. Somewhere in between is where a microbrand can truly create its value - this is the area where brands like Vario, Minim, Kuoe, Traska, and many others have established themselves. Thus, the question for Sero Watch Company, a relatively new microbrand hailing from the Netherlands and founded by Sergino and Robert (the name is an amalgamation of their names), is simple: what kind of microbrand are you? 

Sero Signature

I have mentioned it many times before, but as someone who works for a microbrand, I have a great appreciation for other microbrands. This also means that I am intimately aware of how quickly costs can add up for all the different minutiae that goes into the creation of a watch. That is how I can write without a shadow of a doubt that the Sero Signature collection, despite a reasonable pre-order price of 999 EUR, is anything but cheap. The Signature collection is comprised of Blue, Red, Gold, and Silver. Just like their designs, even the names evoke a classical philosophy - one that doesn’t seem to concern itself with gimmicks. 

I had the privilege to review the Blue Signature (or Signature Blue) over a 10 day period, and it’s really a testament to how much I liked this watch that I wish I had considerably more time. The watch is 37.5mm, which is in line with what one would expect from a dress watch, and Elabore grade handwound Sellita 210-1B movement to keep it nice and thin at 9.5mm. The light blue electroplated dial features vertical brushstrokes, engraved Breguet numerals, the company name below the 12, and Netherlands underneath. 

When I first saw the watch in person, it really reminded me of classic time-only or three-hander Breguet watches. My good friend, Dr. Bryan, retorted to me, “Technically, every watch can trace its roots back to Breguet.” Touche, I guess. I mentioned this to Sergino, and he actually told me that the watch took inspiration from the mid-century Patek Philippe Jumbo Calatrava. Regardless of what the watch is inspired from, I am happy to write that the Blue Signature remains special in its own way without trying to be too different. 

Sero Blue Signature: Am I Formal Enough?

I don’t have to dress formally during my day job, nor do I choose to dress formally during my free time. In fact, as I write this review, I’m wearing a dark green Airism shirt, linen shorts, and New Balance sneakers at this coffee shop in the center of Hanoi. With this muggy heat surrounding me, the last thing I would do is wear a suit. 

But whenever I wore this watch from Sero, I genuinely felt more formal, no matter what I was wearing. I felt like the watch elevated some of my more casual outfits, and the soft blue leather strap with the bright dial was a nice complement to my go-to plain white shirt and black pants, or my Levi jeans and black shirt. 

So if - like me - you are concerned that the Sero Blue Signature is a bit too dressy for your rough-and-tumble life (heavy on the sarcasm here), I think it should be fine. As long as you aren’t doing anything too wild, the watch doesn’t look out of place even when paired with athleisure clothing. 

The Idea of Luxury

The concept of luxury, and what it means, varies from person to person. In a recent video, I addressed the idea of “Entry Level Watches”, and I basically concluded that entry level watches did exist, but that they were not governed by price. Someone’s collection can start with a Vacheron Constantin Overseas, while another person’s collection can start with a Casio F91W, and while the price tags are worlds apart, it doesn’t change that those are the respective person’s starter watch. 

That being said, I have to say - this watch just looks luxurious. Call me shallow or naive or - dare I say it - gauche, but when I look at this dress watch from Sero with its proud Dutch heritage, subtle Breguet numerals, and the matching blue spade handset, I can’t help but think that it looks like my idea of luxury. The fact that it is currently available at the relatively affordable pre-order price of 999 EUR, in my opinion, is a good deal. 

Also, I briefly mentioned it earlier, but this strap is just perfect. Genuinely, I was tempted to ask Sergino to let me keep the strap, because it’s too good. I need to keep it in my life. 

Is It Perfect?

As always, no watch is perfect, and I would like to give credit to Sergino and Robert for encouraging me to discuss my constructive criticism, just like all the other brands that I have worked with before (Vario, Knis, Kuoe, and Houtman, most notably). 

Although it is a reasonable size of 37.5mm, the watch has somewhat straight and flat lugs, which means they don’t really curve or taper to the wrist. On my 6.25 inch wrist, it’s not in danger of seeming too large, but with its thin, bezel-less case design, the dial sometimes seems almost plate-like, and from certain angles, I almost wish there was more depth to it. 

Finally, like most dress watches, there is no lume. This is definitely not a dealbreaker for me, but as always, I think it’s important to mention it anyway, in case this is important for your use case. 

Should It Be Part of Your Signature Look? 

Forging your own path and identity as a microbrand is quite difficult, and I even had this discussion recently with Jonny - the founder of up-and-coming Walker & Crown - about how important it is to establish your identity from the very start. From the ten days I had with this watch, and from the great email exchanges I have had with Sergino, I can say this with absolute certainty: Sero Watch Company knows exactly what it wants to be, and the founders are well on their way to achieving their goals. 

If you are on the lookout for a stylish dress watch that may just turn some heads, I highly recommend checking out Sero’s Signature collection. 

Sero Blue Signature: Specifications

Case diameter (ex. crown): 37.5 mm

Case height: 8.7 mm (ex. crystal) / 9.5 mm (inc. crystal)

Case material: stainless steel with polished top lugs and sloped bezel

Case finish: horizontal brushed sides

Crown: stainless steel with embossed logo

Lug width: 20 mm

Lug to lug: 46.5 mm

Swiss Sellita SW210-1b (manual winding)

Power reserve: 45 hours

Bridges with Geneva stripes

Additionally, Sergino of Sero Watch Company informed me of some differences with the model that I reviewed, and the model that will be shipped out later this year to the many people who pre-ordered this watch. See the changes below.

Sero Blue Signature: Refinements

* Engraved minute track instead of printed

* Movement updated with gilt engravings (“Swiss” and our S logo)

* Caseback revised to 4 screws (down from 6) with less text for a cleaner look

* Strap buckle with increased curvature

* Signature engraving on the dial remains, but will be more refined