Watch Microbrands: Are They Worth it in 2025?

Are you frustrated with the games and tricks from Authorized Dealers? Tired of the new dial colours on preexisting models being the centerpiece of a brand’s yearly releases? Has your bank account finally given in under the strain of $1,000 or more watch purchases?

If the above resonates with you, a microbrand might be the right fit. Microbrands offer some of the greatest value in watchmaking, along with innovative designs and a level of novelty that you won’t find with the likes of Rolex and Omega. After all, how many Farer models do you see in the wild?

The Farer Roche World Timer (Photo by Jilliano)

However, the pros come with cons. Unless you live in the United Kingdom, the opportunity to try on a Vertex is quite limited, while those fancying a Baltic might have to wait until their Paris vacation to see the Aquascaphe on the wrist. Fancy seeing a Kuoe in person? Well, you’ll have to come to Japan. Not to mention the challenge of trusting a brand without decades of history or a global service network backing it. Shipping delays, limited stock, and unfamiliar warranties can sometimes make the buying process feel like a leap of faith.

But here’s the thing: for many collectors, that leap is exactly where the magic happens. The excitement of discovering something fresh, off the beaten path, and crafted with genuine passion is hard to beat. Microbrands often bring a sense of community, storytelling, and originality that feels like a breath of fresh air in a market crowded with recycled designs and cautious releases.

So, whether you’re a seasoned collector hunting for that next unique piece or a newcomer overwhelmed by the big-brand spectacle, microbrands might just offer the perfect blend of value, creativity, and personality you’ve been searching for.

Ready to explore? Let’s dive into why microbrands deserve a spot on your radar and maybe even on your wrist.

Design

Let’s be honest, mainstream brands can get a bit...safe. Every year, we brace ourselves for the inevitable: another steel sports watch with a slightly new dial color or a subtle bracelet tweak. Now contrast that with the microbrand scene, where the design rules are looser, the stakes are different, and the creativity? Often quite high.

Why? Because they have to be bold. Microbrands aren’t buoyed by decades of legacy, endless marketing budgets, or cult-status fan bases. They live and die by their ability to catch the eye. And when you’re not expected to please boardrooms or preserve sacred heritage lines, you’ve got a bit more wiggle room to take risks.

Take the Furlan Marri “Black Sector” for example. A young brand that exploded onto the scene via Kickstarter, Furlan Marri didn’t just mimic vintage watches; it reimagined them. Their mechaquartz chronograph paid homage to mid-century Patek with real flair, but the sector dial variants? They nailed balance and elegance in a way that had seasoned collectors raising eyebrows and pulling out credit cards.

Furlan Marri "Black Sector" from Monochrome Watches

Take Studio Underd0g, for example. Their Watermel0n Chronograph might sound like a joke until you see it in person. But once you do, the dial detail makes this piece beyond unique. And let’s not even get started on the Pizza variant, which features a pineapple slice on the dial, something that might upset some Italians, or at least the ones who suddenly discover their “heritage” at opportune moments.

Both models are whimsical, yes, but weirdly sophisticated too. For the Watermel0n model, the pastel green and pink palette, paired with a Seagull ST-1901 movement, became a cult hit for a reason. More recent models (Gen 3) include the ST-1901B, a movement made exclusively for the brand.

Even Serica, with its 4512 field watch, went minimalist and almost Bauhaus-level clean, offering something that felt both contemporary and timeless. What’s interesting is that while it borrows cues from old military watches, it does so with a sense of proportion and restraint that feels new. It’s not trying to scream heritage.

And speaking of military throwbacks, let’s not forget Vertex. A resurrected British brand with real WWII roots, Vertex brings back the essence of its “Dirty Dozen” history but does so with modern materials, Swiss-made movements, and a certain rugged elegance. The M100A might not be flashy, but it’s got personality and harks back perfectly to days gone by.

Vertex M36 (Photo by Jilliano)

Of course, there’s a practical reason behind all this experimentation too: microbrands have shorter design cycles. They’re nimble. A larger brand might need five meetings, a brand committee, and two years of internal politics to approve a new handset. Meanwhile, microbrands can test an idea, tweak a prototype, and release a limited run within months. It’s the horological version of indie filmmaking. More soul, fewer filters.

Movements

As watch fans, we all love the idea of an in-house movement. There’s something undeniably romantic about knowing the engine ticking away inside your watch was developed, designed, and assembled entirely by the same brand that built the case, cut the hands, and printed the dial.

However, this comes at a cost. Because while “in-house” makes for great marketing copy, it doesn’t always make for the best ownership experience. If you actually wear your watches (and heaven forbid, need to service one), then things get a little more complicated.

Most microbrands use well-established, reliable movements from third-party suppliers like Seiko (NH35, NH38), Miyota (8215, 9039), Sellita (SW200, SW210), and ETA (2824, 2892).

Farer Roche World Timer, which uses a Selitta movement.

These movements are the backbone of the industry. They are not the prettiest movements on the market, nor are they the most technologically innovative, but they are everywhere.

Let’s say your microbrand diver stops holding a power reserve, or your crown feels a bit crunchy, or you simply need to get the movement serviced. If it's powered by a Sellita or Seiko NH movement, any halfway-competent watchmaker from Tokyo to Toronto can crack it open, diagnose the problem, replace parts, and have it back on your wrist for less than the cost of a fancy dinner.

Knis, a Japanese microbrand, which uses a Miyota movement

Now compare that to servicing a proprietary movement from a luxury brand. Assuming the brand even lets third-party watchmakers touch it (and many won’t), you’re likely sending it back to a centralized service center, waiting months, and paying hundreds, and sometimes thousands, to get the movement overhauled.

Of course, in-house movements are mighty impressive. I love looking into the caseback of my Omega Speedmaster Sapphire Sandwich and seeing the gorgeous 3861 movement ticking away. But, I know that in five years, I am going to give my watch to the Omega Service Center for a nearly $500 service, which could have been used on the latest Lorier.

Novelty

We wear watches because they say something. About our taste. Our quirks. Maybe our aspirations. Or maybe just the fact that we’re a little bit obsessive over the curve of a lug or the tone of a matte dial. And for better or worse, novelty matters.

Walk into any accounting office, investment firm, or even your friend’s wedding. Look around at the wrists. Odds are, you’ll spot at least one Submariner. Maybe two. A Seamaster, certainly. A Tudor Black Bay? Yep. Probably a Tag Heuer.

Now, to be fair, these are all great watches. Iconic. Proven. Built like tanks and styled with decades of evolutionary design. And, there’s a certain safety in picking something from a brand everyone knows. There’s cultural cachet. Brand equity. All the buzzwords. But if you're the kind of person who doesn't just want to blend in with the horological crowd, microbrands might offer some relief.

Studio Underd0g's fun chronos with a Seagull movement took the enthusiasts world by storm during the pandemic (photo by Hodinkee)

Wearing a microbrand watch is a bit like buying an independently bottled whisky or wearing a unique pair of shoes that might not be sold in your region. People notice. They ask. They tilt their head a little and say, “What brand is that?” You don’t get that with a Datejust. No one’s asking about your Datejust at brunch unless they’re trying to figure out if it’s real.

But wear something like a Serica 5303, a Studio Underd0g Watermel0n Chronograph, or a Lorier Zephyr, and you’re immediately on different ground. There’s something cool about being the only one in the friend group with a Farer Lander IV or a Boldr Venture.

It feels personal. Like you discovered a band before they blew up. You didn’t just follow the crowd.

Wearing a microbrand often turns your wrist into a conversation starter. It might be with another enthusiast. Or maybe with someone just curious. Either way, it invites engagement.

Of course, novelty only matters if there’s substance beneath it. No one wants a gimmick. And that’s the thing, most respected microbrands have long since moved past gimmicks. They’ve matured. Many have loyal followings, excellent QC, and direct relationships with their communities. They listen. They tweak. They evolve. And for many, they offer the same level of quality, accuracy, and finishing as some larger luxury counterparts.

Why You Should Give Microbrands a Shot     

    

Because sometimes, it’s not about legacy. It’s not about brand equity, resale value, or whether your accountant has the same watch. It’s about connection. It’s about the feeling that you have when you put a watch on your wrist.

Microbrands bring something refreshing to the table. They take risks the big guys won’t. They experiment with design, revive forgotten styles, and often manage to be bolder, cleaner, or just more fun. They use reliable, serviceable movements that won’t bankrupt you at service time. And they’re not cranking out the same tired dial in a “new” color every year.

When you strap on a microbrand watch, there’s a good chance you’ll be the only one in the room wearing it. And in a world where everyone’s got a Seamaster or Submariner, or worse, an Apple Watch*, that novelty matters.

They’re not for everyone. And that’s the point.

So, whether you’re burnt out on AD games, bored with homogenous designs, or just curious what else is out there, give a microbrand a shot. You might find yourself falling in love with watches all over again.

*Co-Founder Jilliano still uses an Apple Watch to track workouts and sleep, so he edited this article in protest.