My favorite watch - by far - has been the Vario Versa - Year of the Horse. I have reviewed this watch on both this blog, as well as my Youtube channel, and it remains my most-worn watch of the year. It's a beautiful and brilliant watch, and it's one that I thought would easily win as my favorite watch of 2026. Imagine my surprise when that watch was replaced by the Vario Versa Automatic.

For a few years now, I have had the privilege of meeting the owners of different brands, thanks to my job working for a Japanese microbrand. I have also had a hand in creating several different watches - whether it was a contribution to the design, the concept, the media push, or even the choice of strap. So, I have intimate knowledge of all the trials and tribulations that go into making even a single watch, but because I don't own the company, I am fortunate not to bear all

Both of us at The Watch Brief own a Kuoe. Founded in 2020 by designer Uchimura, the brand debuted with the Old Smith 90-001. Today, Kuoe operates from a stylish boutique in the Nakagyo Ward, while also selling watches at retail locations worldwide. The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002, which is a bronze field watch featuring a lightly textured black dial, a tan NATO strap, and powered by the workhorse NH38 movement. I've had it for several months now, and it's a comfortable wear.

So when Tommaso took the leap of faith to launch his own brand, it was to bring a complicated watch to the wrists of consumers without costing over a hundred thousand euros (at minimum). After a year of research, he learned, unfortunately, that releasing a debut watch at under a thousand euros with a grand complication like a perpetual calendar or minute repeater was literally impossible, but that didn’t mean he couldn’t do the next best thing: A watch with a lot of great com