I have now handled and / or reviewed a total of four different Kuoe watches, and while I have adored each one to varying degrees, I think this is - hands down - the best of the best that Kuoe has created thus far.

Kuoe is a Japanese microbrand that started during the peak of Covid-19, and it has become somewhat of a darling among watch enthusiasts in the years since. While you could attribute their success to a myriad of factors, such as their accessible pricing, the “Made in Japan” prestige, and more, none of that would matter if it wasn’t for one simple thing: they make good watches. Not only do they make good watches, they make watches with a distinct, memorable style of design.

Both of us at The Watch Brief own a Kuoe. Founded in 2020 by designer Uchimura, the brand debuted with the Old Smith 90-001. Today, Kuoe operates from a stylish boutique in the Nakagyo Ward, while also selling watches at retail locations worldwide. The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002, which is a bronze field watch featuring a lightly textured black dial, a tan NATO strap, and powered by the workhorse NH38 movement. I've had it for several months now, and it's a comfortable wear.