Vertex: The Revival of a Dirty Dozen Brand
- Bryan
- Aug 15
- 10 min read
Japanese supermarkets are a marvel of modern shopping. Spotless, efficient, and stocked with food so pristine it could moonlight as jewellery. The strawberries look like they’ve been hand-polished by monks, and priced accordingly, of course. The fish is so fresh you could eat it raw, and I often do. And please, don’t get me started on the incredible marbling on the Wagyu beef.
But if you’re after anything remotely recognisable from the United Kingdom, you’re out of luck. Try finding a tin of Heinz beans or a bottle of HP Sauce, and you’ll wind up lost, scouring the shelves like an archaeologist searching for a lost civilisation.
Thus, when I want a taste of home, I have to rely on friends who happily act as food mules, carting tins of beans, candies, and sauces thousands of miles. When I received my latest shipment, a glorious, glinting tin of Heinz Baked Beans, it was like being handed the Crown Jewels. Within hours, I’d cooked up a full English breakfast: bacon, eggs, potatoes, sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes, and toast. The works. In Japan, they try, but they never quite get it right. That morning, however, I was back in a greasy spoon in Leeds, and all was well in the world.
Which is exactly how I feel about Vertex, my favourite British microbrand. In a horological world drowning in over-complicated pieces from Switzerland and Japan, Vertex just quietly gets on with being excellent. No shouting. No gimmicks. Just beautifully made watches, with proper heritage, that hit the same deep, irrational comfort as a tin of Heinz beans for breakfast.
All About Vertex
Some brands like to revel in a history that was never truly theirs, producing homage pieces and stamping a broad sword on the dial as though it were merely a decorative motif for the masses. Vertex, however, is different. Vertex has a genuine history.
The brand traces its origins to founder Claude Lyons, whose first watch venture was the Dreadnaught Watch Company, established in 1912. Dreadnaught quickly gained a reputation for producing strong and reliable timepieces. By 1915, the company was supplying watches to the British military during World War I. Just one year later, Lyons launched Vertex, with operations in both London and Switzerland.
The interwar years were a prosperous period for Vertex. Among its notable achievements, the brand cemented its reputation for reliability by moving away from the multi-movement manufacturing model and securing an agreement with Thommen A.G. From that point forward, Vertex watches were both manufactured and cased by a single company, ensuring greater consistency in quality. Thommen supplied the same movement used in its own Revue watches, creating a closer integration between the two firms. The partnership became so close that certain models carried dual branding, “Vertex Revue” proudly displayed on the dial, which was a nod to their shared craftsmanship and near-merger identity. While rare, some models can be found at auction, in case you’re intersted.
However, 1944 would mark the brand’s defining moment. During the Second World War, the British Ministry of Defence sought to replace its Army Trade Pattern watches, which had proven insufficiently rugged for battlefield use. The new specification called for timepieces that were robust, highly legible, accurate, and capable of withstanding the harshest conditions. This led to the R.S./Prov/4373A standard, later known as the W.W.W., short for “Watch, Wrist, Waterproof.” Approved in 1945, the specification resulted in the creation of the legendary “Dirty Dozen” military watches, produced by brands including Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, and, of course, Vertex. At the time, these brands had no marketing gimmicks. They were genuine tools of war, built for the men who risked everything to protect freedom.
Like many of their dirty dozen counterparts, post-World War II was a trying time for the company. The 1970s were a decade that was about as kind to homegrown watchmakers as it was to fashion. You see, by the mid-70s, Vertex was still ticking along. But then came the Quartz Crisis. Suddenly, the world went mad for this new quartz technology, and many of the old guard found themselves relegated to the pages of history. So, after over half a century of making brilliant watches, Vertex closed its doors. Quietly. Without fuss.
A New Era and the M100
In 2016, exactly a century after the brand’s birth, Vertex returned thanks to Claude Lyons’ great-grandson, Don Cochrane. And it did so not with a garish splash or a six-figure tourbillon made out of unicorn bones, but with something quietly magnificent: the M100.
The M100 wasn’t just “inspired by history.” It was history, with a modern twist. Based heavily on the original Dirty Dozen Cal59 design, it was everything a proper field watch should be: clean, legible, tough, and entirely free of nonsense. No clutter. No shiny gems. Just a solid watch with real purpose.
Of course, the watch had to adapt to the modern world. Unlike the much smaller pieces often found during the war years, the M100 was 40mm with a Swiss ETA Peseux 7001 mechanical movement. While impressive, it’s the dial that steals the show. The most impressive element is the set of molded, applied numerals that are produced out of solid luminant (made with Super-LumiNova) material. This doesn’t just help give the dial a welcome sense of visual depth, but it also makes the dial easier to read. More so, who doesn’t like three-dimensional luminant? In the dark, the M100 looks fantastic.
Sadly, this gorgeous manual wind field watch was rather limited, available by invitation or to active service members. For us civilians, we were presented with the M100A shortly after, which substituted the manual wind movement in the former M100 with the classic Sellita SW260-1. While I would generally prefer a manual wind variant in a field watch, I can understand the mass market appeal of an automatic. The 2023 M100A is a 40-millimeter tribute to the original World War 2 military watchwith a dial that is unique and beautiful. It has subtle texturing with the Vertex name and the British Broad Arrow front and center.
The well-proportioned hands are deeply filled with X1 Super Luminova, and the minute hand exactly reaches the military-style outer track. Like the M100, the stars of the show are the three-dimensional lumed numerals, which are cut-out precision shapes. The numbers pop out of the dial, giving a superb aesthetic and low-light display.
The M100A ships with a black leather strap and two NATO straps, with a metal bracelet available at extra cost. On the bracelet, the M100A represents an incredible alternative to pieces such as the IWC Mark XX, the Tudor Ranger, or the Bremont Broadsword, amongst others.
The M36
As the 80th anniversary of D-Day approached, Vertex released the M36. At first glance, it’s just a smaller version of the M100. Same military bones, same luminous Arabic numerals, same sense of toughness. It was a tribute, really, to the kind of watch a soldier might’ve worn when the world was black and white and courage came in spades.
And for me, that hit differently.
You see, my grandfather served in the US Navy during World War II. He flew bombing runs over Germany, long, dangerous missions in a flying metal tin can, surrounded by flak, cold, and the knowledge that you might not make it back for breakfast. One day, the worst possible situation occurred, and his plane was shot down over Belgium. After he was liberated and returned home, he rarely talked about his experience, but his collection of memorabilia and medals in the corner of the room was a nice reminder of his past.
So when I look at the M36, I don’t just see a well-made British watch. I see something that could have genuinely belonged to that generation. A watch that speaks to that era. It’s not a reproduction. It’s a reminder.
At 36mm, it’s modest in size, but the relatively long lugs make it feel larger on the wrist. With a lug-to-lug of just 44.5mm, the watch can feel a bit like a Nomos, wearing larger than its case size may seem. However, while I normally don’t fancy such dimensions, the larger size allows for an easy Nato fitting. A strap, mind you, that is held in place with screws, rather than pins. Similar to many Panerai models, one must unscrew a rather fiddly small end screw before removing the entire unit. Luckily, in the incredibly stylish package, Vertex includes a screwdriver to help with this delicate operation.
The M36 is powered by the Sellita SW260-1, a Swiss automatic with hacking seconds. While this movement is often associated with a date function, Vertex left that feature off the M36. As you may know from my previous date-related ramblings, I was quite happy with the decision. No awkward little window spoiling the symmetry. It’s all beautifully balanced, like a pint of ale pulled by someone who knows what they’re doing. 28,800 vibrations per hour, 38-hour power reserve, and it ticks away with the kind of quiet confidence fitting a field watch.
Like the M100 series, the M36 shines on the dial. They’ve used Moulded Super-LumiNova (Lumicast) for the numerals, meaning they’re not painted on, but actual glowing 3D blocks stuck to the dial. In the dark, this thing lights up like a Lancaster bomber’s instrument panel.
To top it all off, the M36 features 100 meters of water resistance and the date of the D-Day landings engraved on the caseback.
A more thorough review of the M36 will be coming to The Watch Brief soon.
The M60 and the MP45
Right, so now we get to the MP45 and M60, watches I haven’t had the pleasure of owning or viewing (yet).
The MP45 is Vertex’s take on the mono-pusher chronograph, the sort of watch that looks like it’s seen action but, in truth, missed the fight entirely. Back in 1945, the British War Office asked Vertex to design and produce an Ordnance timing watch, intended for use in navigation and fire, and bomb disposal. But then, just as it was ready, the war ended, post-war rationing set in, and the whole project was shelved.
Fast-forward to 2018, and Vertex finally dusted off the idea, modernised it, and released what has become one of their standout pieces. And they didn’t mess about. The satin-brushed stainless steel case has a purposeful, tool-like feel, paired with X1 Super-LumiNova moulded Arabic numerals (aged in the case of the Heritage model), syringe hands, a broad arrow at 6 o’clock, and those two tiny red dots at 12, a subtle bit of flair in an otherwise no-nonsense design. The dial is bi-compax, balanced, and legible, the kind of layout that feels like it belongs in the brand’s DNA.
Now, the case. To keep it simple, this case is chunky. The automatic is a rather thick 15.9mm, while the manual wind movement trims that down to 14.8mm, which is exactly why I’d pick the manual. It’s just more wearable, and I’ll admit, just as with the M100, I enjoy the small morning ritual of winding a watch. The diameter comes in at 40mm, with a lug-to-lug of 48.5mm and a 44.5mm case width, making it substantial but not ludicrous. A tidy 20mm lug width means you can swap straps to your heart’s content, although it already comes with one leather option and two NATOs in the box. A steel bracelet is available at an extra charge.
Inside, it’s powered by the Sellita SW510 MP, whether you go manual or automatic. It’s a solid movement with about 63 hours of power reserve, hacking seconds, and of course, that single pusher that starts, stops, and resets the chronograph in one motion. No extra buttons. No clutter. Just pure, clean engineering.
Then there’s the M60 Aqualion, Vertex’s dive watch. This one’s built like a proper tool watch, with 600 metres of water resistance. Yes, six hundred. Enough to handle just about anything in your day-to-day life, and then some.
So, what’s under the hood? It packs a 40mm stainless-steel case, sits a comfortable 14 mm thick, and stretches 48.9 mm lug-to-lug. Extra brownie points for the 20 mm lug width, so go ahead and swap straps until your heart’s content. The bezel is a matte ceramic 60-click type that fits the overall design well.
Inside, Vertex chose the Sellita SW300-1, a COSC-certified automatic with a 4Hz beat rate, 25 jewels, and a solid 56-hour power reserve. Nothing flashy, but bulletproof and reliable. The dial is simplistically brilliant: matte black with moulded X1 Super-LumiNova applied indices, and sword hands surrounded by polished steel.
The M60 is available in stainless steel with or without DLC coating, and a lovely blue option that reminds this author a bit of the 43mm Tudor Pelagos. And don’t worry about the accessories; this thing comes in a tough-as-nails Pelican case, with a full stainless bracelet, rubber dive strap, and a nylon Zulu strap included from the factory.
To Sum It All Up
So, let’s be honest: Vertex watches aren’t cheap. When you see the price tags, your first reaction might be to clutch your wallet and wonder if you accidentally walked into a luxury watch boutique. And yes, I know that movement snobs will scoff at paying £1,500 or more for a standard Sellita.
But here’s the thing: once you actually hold a Vertex in your hand, everything changes.
It’s the quality that sneaks up on you. The weight, the finish, the attention to detail that whispers, “this was made by people who care.” The feel of the strap, the perfect snap of the crown, the way the lume burns bright in the dark, and the incredible case detail tell you that this is a watch designed for a purpose by people who care.
And that’s where Don Cochrane deserves all the credit. He could have slapped his great-grandfather’s Vertex name on the dial, outsourced the whole thing to a faceless factory, and cashed in on nostalgia. Instead, he did it the hard way. He honoured his great-grandfather’s legacy with the same principles that made Vertex one of the Dirty Dozen in the first place: function, reliability, and design rooted in history.
That’s why a Vertex feels different. It’s not a marketing fantasy. It’s a continuation of a story that included muddy fields and cramped cockpits, in the hands of people who had bigger things to worry about than whether their watch matched their cufflinks. It’s history you can wear.
Vertex doesn’t just sell watches. It preserves a legacy. And in that respect, they’re doing a better job than most. I look forward to seeing what the future holds for Vertex.