Watch News: New Baltic, Slow Nomos, Expensive Timex, & 39% Tariffs

It sometimes feels as if there is a brand new release from a major brand every week, which also means that there is a brand new release from a microbrand or a notable independent every other day. Unfortunately, we can’t keep track of all of these new watches, but we can at least highlight a few of our favorite releases, updates, or industry-related news. 

Let’s start it off with one of our favorite microbrands. 

Baltic Aquascaphe MK2

The notable French microbrand Baltic launched the MK2 (Mark II) of their most iconic collection - the Aquascaphe. Originally released in 2018, the Aquascaphe has been covered by dozens of watch publications and youtubers for its competitive price (sub-1000 USD), terrific vintage-inspired design, and a reliable hi-beat movement (Miyota 9039). In many ways, the MK2 is still more of the same, except it’s replaced the Blancpain-esque bezel with a more rugged bezel-insert that seems more similar to the Squale or 4 digit Subs of old. It now comes in either a 39.5mm or 37mm case size with a double-dome sapphire crystal. Interestingly, Baltic has chosen to retain the same Miyota movement, and if their website and social media photos are anything to go by, they also seem to be heavily promoting the MK2 with their stylish rubber straps over their Beads-of-Rice bracelet or flat link bracelet options. 

I would have preferred a newer movement, but to be honest, I still prefer the Miyota 9039 over its more expensive Swiss counterpart in Selitta (the SW-200), so it’s not the end of the world. 

The Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 is available for 630 EUR with Free Shipping Worldwide.

Brew Watch in Japan

Brew announced that they will officially be available at Tic Tac stores (yes, that is the name of an actual watch retailer franchise) all over Japan, and the Watch Brief team have even seen it available at the Tic Tac branch in Oita. I suspect this may have a little something to do with the recent tariffs in the US, and if so, I think it is great. 

They have also released an exclusive Japan Only model, but my heart still belongs to the white Brew Metric Chrono with light blue accents. Speaking of Brew, though, they have also released an ani-digi watch where the digital display shows a cup of espresso brewing after a 30 second timer has been completed.

The stainless steel case measures 37.5mm by 43mm with a thickness of 13mm, giving it a balanced presence on the wrist. The dial channels a distinctly 1970s aesthetic, with four rectangularly spaced applied hour markers featuring a subtle faux-patina tone that contrasts nicely against the black backdrop. Just below sits the digital LED screen, activated by a pusher on the case flank. With a press, a 30-second countdown timer appears, which is an ideal duration for pulling an espresso, even if aficionados will note there’s no universal “perfect” time.

While not every owner will be pulling shots at home, the concept is charming. After all, many watch lovers buy dive watches without venturing anywhere near 300 meters underwater. I can say this for certain: we are more likely to pull a great shot of espresso at home, however unlikely that may be, than we are to take a deep dip in our nearest ocean. 

While we are torn at The Watch Brief regarding the overall attractiveness of ani-digi pieces, what Brew has created here is an interesting take on their existing design language. One wonders how many more coffee-related pieces might pop out of their New York headquarters. 

The new Metric Digital Blend is priced at $425.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Two-Tone Dial 

Jaeger-LeCoultre, often referred to as the “watchmakers’ watchmaker,” has refreshed its Master Control Calendar line with a handsome new grained two-tone sector dial. Limited to just 500 pieces, the watch comes in a 40mm stainless steel case with brushed and polished finishes and a crown at 3 o’clock. Inside beats the in-house calibre 866AA, equipped with 34 jewels, a 70-hour power reserve, and a clever jumping-date mechanism that skips from the 15th to the 16^th, ensuring the moonphase display is never obscured.

The sector dial is the star here. Rendered in two-tone grey with elongated triangular hour markers, it brings a sharp, architectural balance to the design. If there’s one weak spot, it’s the applied indices at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock. They aren’t poorly executed, but next to the rest of the dial’s detailing, they feel a touch uninspired.

Balancing the upper half of the dial are neatly framed day and month windows beneath the JLC logo, while the date is displayed on an outer ring, indicated by a red-tipped pointer hand for quick legibility. The layout is clean, well-proportioned, and true to the understated elegance that defines the Master Control collection.

Overall, the new Master Control Calendar is a refined, modern dress watch that demonstrates JLC’s technical ingenuity and design restraint. The indices may divide opinion, but as a package, it’s an impressive release.

Limited to 500 pieces, the watch is priced at $15,300.

Nivada x Hodinkee

As many of you already know, Nivada Grenchen is one of a few historic Swiss brands that have been revived recently by Guillaume Laidet and Rémi Chabrat, and let me just say, I have been a massive fan ever since. Whether it’s the field watch and dress watch hybrid of the Antarctic, or the Genta-esque integrated bracelet sports watch F77, I have just been obsessed with the brand. This new release in collaboration with Hodinkee? Well, let’s just say I’m not that obsessed. There is nothing wrong with the GMT that they have released, but there’s also nothing all that special, which I’ve come to expect from this brand. 

The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Hodinkee Limited Edition is available at 1,740 USD.

Timex Atelier Marine M1a

Now for something a little different. The latest release from Timex breaks new ground for the brand, not in terms of design, but in pricing. The new Atelier line debuts with the 41mm Atelier Marine M1a (TW2Y72500), a diver that carries a price tag far higher than many would expect from Timex.

The M1a offers 200 meters of water resistance and is powered by a Catena SA100 automatic movement, visible through its open caseback. On the three-link bracelet, the watch is priced at $1,050, while the version on an artificial rubber strap comes in at $950.

At this price point, the movement choice is somewhat underwhelming. The SA100 delivers just 36 hours of power reserve with an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per day, figures that fall short in today’s competitive market. The inclusion of a butterfly clasp also feels like an odd choice for a supposed dive watch. While serviceable, it lacks the practicality typically expected in this category.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005

In 2025, Grand Seiko introduced the groundbreaking UFA (Ultra Fine Accuracy) series. The debut models, the SLGB001 and SLGB003, showcased the remarkable 9RB2 Spring Drive movement, accurate to within +/- 1 second per month and offering a 72-hour power reserve.

The latest addition to the series, the UFA Ice Forest SLGB005, may appear nearly identical at first glance. It maintains the 37mm case with its mix of brushed surfaces and Zaratsu-polished accents, along with 100 meters of water resistance. But there are notable differences.

Most significantly, the titanium case has been replaced with Ever-Brilliant Steel, a material that improves corrosion resistance, adds weight, and gives the watch a brighter, more lustrous appearance. The dial retains the Ice Forest pattern but introduces a violet gradient that darkens toward the edges. Grand Seiko describes the effect as “evoking the forests slowly emerging in the morning light.”

One disappointment, however, is the clasp. While Grand Seiko has made strides by introducing micro-adjustment on the SLGB003, this new SLGB005 reverts to a clasp without that feature, an omission that feels like a missed opportunity to shift the narrative. 

The UFA Ice Forest SLGB005 is priced at $11,100.

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer 'Night Navigation' Editions

This one’s a little painful to write. The day after Nomos launched the previous Neomatik Worldtimer, I placed an order for the blue variant. That was quite a while ago (April 2, 2025, to be exact, but hey, who’s counting? Definitely not Nomos). Influencers, of course, have theirs proudly on wrists and in Instagram reels. Meanwhile, this humble watch blogger is still waiting, refreshing the inbox and wondering if my Nomos Authorized Dealer even remembers.

And now, Nomos is back with more. Enter the new “Night Navigation” limited editions: Grid, Trace, and Vector. Each sticks to the same formula. The case is 40mm and only an impressive 9.9mm wide. Inside the Neomatik Worldtimers lies the automatic DUW 302, which has 42 hours of power reserve. The dial layout is unchanged, but the colorways are where things get interesting.

Nomos says the trio draws inspiration from cockpit instruments and the glow of cities seen from an airliner at night. Grid mixes orange highlights with a brown city ring and ecru text. Trace gets a splash of turquoise, while Vector goes for light yellow and ecru accents paired with an olive city ring. 

It’s fair to say these are some of the most adventurous dials Nomos has put out, at least for a brand that usually leans into Bauhaus restraint. One suspects Nomos didn’t quite anticipate the feverish demand for the Worldtimer back in April and now, rather than catching up on deliveries, they’ve decided to roll out another batch of limited editions while some of us are still staring at our order confirmations from six months ago.

Each “Night Navigation” edition is priced at $5,190 and limited to 175 pieces. They’ll probably sell out quickly, giving Nomos every excuse to crank out more limited runs before I ever see the blue Worldtimer I actually ordered.

Tariffs and Price Increases

If you are not living in the United States, then odds are that this entire section doesn’t affect you… yet. As many of you are no doubt aware, a certain president has decided to levy 39% tariffs on all Swiss watches (well, other things as well, but let’s stick to the watches). For now, prices have yet to increase, but thanks to the tariffs and the global luxury slowdown, it’s likely that these prices will increase much sooner than one would hope. Unfortunately, it is also likely that these price increases will not be restricted to just the United States, so until then, I guess it’s time to stock up on Speedys and Rolexes*.

*This is a joke. You’ll be on the waitlist by the time the tariffs are finally gone.